By Sourish Bhattacharyya
BANGALORE and Bengal are powered by two
entirely different mindsets, but our own Silicon Valley’s culinary scene has
been dominated for years by a Bengali. Abhijit Saha grew up in Delhi, studied Hotel
Management at IHM Pusa and Oenology at the Johnson and Wales University, USA, started
out as an industrial trainee at the Taj Palace in his home city, earned his
spurs at The Park, where he launched IT.alia in Bangalore with guidance from
the famous Antonio Carluccio, and then has had his adopted city eating out of
his hand at Caperberry (and subsequently Fava).
Now, there’s another probashi (expat) Bengali chef who’s set
to storm Bangalore’s culinary scene as executive chef steering the seven
restaurants with which the country’s first Ritz Carlton has opened in the
southern city. Anupam Banerjee, who grew up in Ranchi, where his mother is a
professor of economics and his father an engineer, was the head chef of Rasoi
by Vineet at the Mandarin Oriental Geneva when it became the first and only Indian
restaurant in Continental Europe to get a Michelin star and 15 points on the
GaultMillau.
Banerjee’s ties with the Michelin-starred
chef-restaurateur Vineet Bhatia, the force behind Rasoi, goes back to their
days at The Oberoi. When the Mandarin Oriental Geneva chose to open with the
Indian restaurant in 2008, Banerjee naturally was the hotel’s first choice for
the position of head chef. Banerjee, who turns 40 next years, has spent nine
years with the Mandarin Oriental, having worked at the group’s hotel at Hyde
Park, a favourite of Indian fat cats, and in Washington, D.C., where he was
head chef before he got his Bangalore assignment — or, to use the famous Ritz
Carlton expression, was inducted as one of the “Ladies and Gentlemen serving
Ladies and Gentlemen”.
An IHM Chennai graduate, Banerjee
completed his education at the Oberoi Centre for Learning and Development
(OCLD) and worked at La Rochelle, where he honed his French culinary skills, before
it made way for threesixty degrees at The Oberoi New Delhi. When he was 25, he
won a cooking competition for chefs at The Oberoi and was chosen to represent
the hotel at a ‘Taste of Asia’ promotion in Singapore.
It was there that he was spotted by a
chef from The Raffles and was inducted into the historic hotel, where he also
met his Singapore-Chinese wife Fung. In the two years he spent as stand-in chef
at The Raffles, he got to work in all of the hotel’s 18 restaurants, which
prepared him for bigger roles at the Mandarin Oriental. Banerjee has also worked
with Alain Soliveres at his Michelin two-star restaurant in Hotel Vernet,
Paris, had a short stint with Pierre Gagnaire at his Michelin three-star restaurant,
also in Paris, and worked alongside with Charlie Trotters, Jeun Fleury and Lea
Linster.
A world-travelled chef who has lived
and worked in three continents, Banerjee comes with an impressive CV and a
heavy load of expectations on his shoulders. The Ritz Carlton Bangalore will
have three specialty restaurants — The Market, an all-day dining destination
where the main highlight will be the chef’s table where Banerjee will showcase
his culinary repertoire; The Lantern, a lantern-shaped Chinese restaurant and
bar designed by Super Potato; Riwaz, a Bukhara-type North West Frontier restaurant
with a whisky and wine room; and Bang, an open-air rooftop bar offering
panoramic views of the city from the 15th floor. That’s an impressive inventory
to command, but Banerjee has the experience to slip into his role seamlessly.
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