This restaurant review first appeared in Mail Today on Friday, October 25, 2013.
Copyright: Mail Today Newspapers
http://epaper.mailtoday.in/showtext.aspx?boxid=525859&parentid=86723&issuedate=25102013
Copyright: Mail Today Newspapers
http://epaper.mailtoday.in/showtext.aspx?boxid=525859&parentid=86723&issuedate=25102013
SNAPSHOT
WHERE: Made in Punjab, 6 & 7, Ground
Floor, Cyber Hub, DLF Cyber City, Gurgaon
WHEN: 12 NOON to
4 P.M.; 7:30 TO 11:30 P.M.
DIAL: +91 8130911899 / 8800692397
AVG. MEAL FOR TWO (A LA
CARTE): Rs 1,500+++
The restaurant doesn’t
have a liquor licence yet.
By Sourish
Bhattacharyya
AS YOU enter Made in Punjab on the ground floor of the
country’s “first food mall”, DLF Cyber Hub, Gurgaon, after negotiating dug-up
roads and traffic diversions, you’re greeted by three humongous tandoors encased in titanium shells at
the front end of a see-through turbocharged kitchen. It was only a couple of
days after its opening that I was at the restaurant in the yet-to-formally-open
mall sandwiched between Infinity Towers and HeroBPO and the DLF building that
looks like a miniature of Dubai’s Burj al-Arab, just off NH-8.
It smelt, as the deathless Kurt Cobain sang so memorably,
like teen spirit. I could only see Youngistan all around me, not exactly
teenagers but young executives from the steel-and-glass temples of India Inc
surrounding the Cyber Hub, digging the all-you-can-eat buffet priced at Rs 550
A.I. (“it is only an introductory offer, sir,” the manager was quick to add,
lest I started entertaining delusions of paying little to live it up).
Halomax lights, a current favourite of stylish stores in
malls, give the restaurant a warm, welcoming glow; the tables have Italian marble
tops and the chairs are made with Burma teak; the crockery, cutlery and
serviettes are all branded. The music of Advaita, my favourite Delhi band,
plays in the background — a seamless fusion of rock, Sufi and Hindustani
classical that can soothe even the most jangled nerves.
The place oozes quite elegance, despite its opening price of
Rs 550 A.I., which, I am told, is not likely to go up beyond Rs 650 A.I. That I
don’t expect to happen soon, thoughy, because competition will get serious once
the DLF Cyber Hub has its 44 restaurants up and running when it becomes fully
operational. The line-up includes India’s biggest Hard Rock CafĂ©; AD Singh’s
Irani restaurant venture, Soda Water Openerwala; Dimsumbros/Yo China duo Ashish
Kapur and Ajay Saini’s The Wine Company (where you’ll be able to buy wine at
retail prices and have your meal with your favourite grape); the Rajasthani
restaurant hugely popular in Maharashtra, Panchvati Gaurav; and Made in
Punjab’s competition (and mirror image), Dhaba by The Claridges.
Coming back to Made in Punjab, the excitement begin with each
table getting a sampler of six types of papad
with four different chutneys to stoke the appetite of the lunch-time turnout
for the feast lined up on tables crowded with busy induction stoves and stylish
cast-iron pots designed by the French company Le Creuset. Curries and biryani kept in these pots don’t get
overcooked — a common complaint with buffet food warmed in old-fashioned
chafing dishes.
The spread includes ten starters, ten kinds of biryani and curries, ten salads and ten
desserts, including a divine Moong Dal Halwa that miraculously doesn’t swim in ghee. It also includes the Made in
Punjab version of French tableside cooking — live phulka and dal trolleys,
a nifty innovation introduced to Delhi’s dining scene by Masala Art at Taj
Palace. The Dal Saat Salaam — no, it’s not a Maoist slogan! — is made with
seven kinds of tempering by your tableside (which explains the name). Made in
Punjab has changed the meaning of value for money. The variety it offers also
would make you want to come back again for the buffet.
The 112-seater restaurant’s a la carte menu has a number of standouts, but my favourites are
the saffron-infused, generously creamy murgh
kastoori kebabs, the more rugged tandoori
chaanp, the generously proportioned Kashmiri morels (bharwan gucchi), the unforgettable prawn kulcha and gucchi naan,
which I have never had anywhere before, the World’s Heaviest Lassi laden with rabdi and peda from Mathura, and the Kulfi Sundae.
Made in Punjab is just what Delhi/NCR’s new generation of
diners needed but never had. And if you go for the buffet spread, make sure you
check out each item in the churan
platter that comes to you at the end in an ornate box with brightly hued
ceramic pigeonholes.
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