This my fortnightly Fortune Cookie column, which appeared in Mail Today on May 8, 2014. Copyright: Mail Today Newspapers
By Sourish Bhattacharyya
THIS IS A story in many parts, which starts in the Cayman
Islands, where an Italian banker meets an Indian from Calgary, Canada, also
working in a financial institution, and the two fall in love and marry, travel
around the world, nurturing their passion for good food, and finally land in
Delhi to open what promises to be the city's finest classical Italian
restaurant at Greater Kailash-II's M-Block Market.
Artusi's talented and cheerful executive chef, Romina Lugaresi (left), strikes a pose with the restaurant's promoter, Gurpinder Balcon |
In addition to the professional bond, Balcon also shares a
common geography with the immortal Artusi. The Italian cookbook writer spent
his life in Florence (and lived till he was 90 -- a glorious example of the
power of good food), but he owned land in Emilia-Romagna, in Forlimpopli and Cesena,
which is Balcon's original home (and that of the restaurant's executive chef, Romina
Lugaresi). Emilia-Romagna is also Italy's centre of gastronomy -- this is where
you'll find Parma, famous for its ham (prosciutto di Parma), cheese (Parmigiano
Reggiano), and also the world's largest pasta maker, Barilla; Modena, renowned
for its syrupy balsamic vinegar; Bologna, the capital, which is synonymous with
the most popular pasta dish, spaghetti bolognese, and tortellini.
Artusi's star offering is the panna cotta layered with caramelised almonds and figs |
Talking about hand-made pastas, I must share the story that
Balcon narrated to me about one of them. It is about the tubular strozzapreti,
which, translated into English, means "choke" or "strangle the
priest". Balcon said that Emilia-Romagna has produced an equal number of
priests and communists because the Church, being a major landowner of the
region, has never been popular in the region. The pasta, according to a popular
story, had to be given by peasant families to the Church in lieu of rent for
the land they tilled. And each time they gave the pasta to the priests, they
wished they could strangle them with it (or that the priest would choke while
eating it)!
Artusi faithfully presents this vibrant culinary heritage. On
my first visit, I ordered the Emilia-Romagna tasting menu, which started with a
platter of crescione (piadina flatbread stuffed with spinach in this instance)
to balance the piled-up slivers of meats -- two-year-old Parma ham, coppa and a
regular salami -- served with pickled vegetables. Then came the invigorating broth, Cappelletti
in Brodo (the cap-shaped pasta was stuffed with a two kinds of cheese and had a
hint of nutmeg), followed by pappardelle (the flat pasta cooked to perfection)
with a gamy minced guinea hen ragu, and finally, roughly chopped fillet of
pork, grilled and served with artichokes, rucola, olive oil and balsamic
vinegar. The preparations are light and delicious, and the wine selection is
intelligently organised, so you'll definitely find your favourite, and the
panna cotta layered with caramelised almonds and figs will leave you with the
urge to return soon for more.
ARTUSI: QUICK BITES
ARTUSI: QUICK BITES
Address: M 24, M-Block Market, Greater Kailash II, New Delhi
Reservations: 011 4906 6666
Artusi's Pellegrino wrote the first Italian cookbook containing recipes drawn from all regions of the new republic |
Timings:
Lunch: 12:00 NOON TO 3:00 P.M.
Dinner: 6:30 TO 11:30 P.M.
Café Bar: 8:00 A.M. TO 4 P.M.
Cocktail Bar: 4:00 P.M. TO 1:00 A.M.
Average Meal for Two (without alcohol):
Lunch: Rs 3,000
Dinner: Rs 4,500
Parking: Easy throughout the day. Valet parking available.
Credit Cards: Accepted
Website: www.artusi.in
Facebook: www.facebook.com/artusiNewDelhi
GREATER KAILASH-II M-BLOCK
MARKET HAS BECOME
DELHI'S NEW FOODIE HUB
IT WAS Ritu Dalmia's Diva and Nelson Wang's China Garden that gave Greater Kailash-II's M-Block Market its initial lift. Hao Shi Niann Niann followed, Goa's Souza Lobo shut shop, old-timers Chungwa and Not Just Paranthas have chugged along, but now it has become the city's new restaurant magnet. Consider the restaurants that have opened in that market in the past two years: Rara Avis, Mini Mughal, Chocolateria San Churros, Uzuri, Amalfi, Sattviko, and now Artusi and Yeti: The Himalayan Kitchen. Each one of these restaurants has a distinctive menu, an upmarket look and feel, and a dedicated fan following. Can they now combine to promote the market as a foodie destination and steal the thunder of their Greater Kailash-I counterparts.
MARKET HAS BECOME
DELHI'S NEW FOODIE HUB
IT WAS Ritu Dalmia's Diva and Nelson Wang's China Garden that gave Greater Kailash-II's M-Block Market its initial lift. Hao Shi Niann Niann followed, Goa's Souza Lobo shut shop, old-timers Chungwa and Not Just Paranthas have chugged along, but now it has become the city's new restaurant magnet. Consider the restaurants that have opened in that market in the past two years: Rara Avis, Mini Mughal, Chocolateria San Churros, Uzuri, Amalfi, Sattviko, and now Artusi and Yeti: The Himalayan Kitchen. Each one of these restaurants has a distinctive menu, an upmarket look and feel, and a dedicated fan following. Can they now combine to promote the market as a foodie destination and steal the thunder of their Greater Kailash-I counterparts.
THE GOOD LAMA OF HIGH
SPIRITS
YANGDUP LAMA is my favourite bar magician. Like a smiling
Buddha, he brings a whiff of his native Darjeeling when he speaks in his gentle
tones; when he works, he's a picture of meditative concentration. And the
surprising bit about Delhi's most in-demand bar consultant, who now has his own
'speakeasy', Cocktails & Dreams at Sector-15, Gurgaon, is that he imbibes alcohol
only in taster's portion drops! He took this call early on in his professional
life after figuring out that to be a good bartender, you have to stop drinking
socially. And his advice to all his customers is that they must "drink to
enjoy, not to abuse".
I have been waiting for the day this cocktail guru comes out
with a book of recipes with his distinctive twist. He has finally done it with
Gitanjali Chaturvedi, a Ph.D. from JNU who, in her own words, has "lived
and worked in vodka-infused post-Soviet republics, in dry Afghanistan and in
sub-Saharan Africa, which is a mix of the two". Cocktails & Dreams: The Ultimate Indian Cocktail Book (Wisdom
Tree) is in a league of its own, because you'll never find a recipe for a
Cognac & Chai or a Paan Supari Martini, or even a Masala Maar Ke in another
cocktail shaker's book. Lama has the knack of knowing which Indian flavour will
do well internationally and that is what makes this book special (apart from
the loads of tips for the home bartender).
My personal favourite is the Paan Supari Martini because it
uses the distinctive flavours of betel leaves, which lend a refreshingly
enigmatic twist to any drink they are added to, or for that matter to the Paan
Biryani served at Baluchi, The Lalit's Indian restaurant. By experimenting with
these flavours, Yangdup isn't trying to be exotic, but is making our palate
more receptive to a more creative approach to cocktails. His Sazerac Inspired by
India, for instance, turns around the classical rye whiskey cocktail by using
aniseed (saunf)-infused premium
domestic stuff, replacing Peychaud's with orange bitters and adding rose syrup
instead of the sugar cube. Aniseed, orange and rose -- that's a combination of
flavours you'd expect from a Pierre Herme! Well, creative minds do think alike!
BIRYANI WITH A PIZZA TWIST
BIRYANI WITH A PIZZA TWIST
IT'S BEEN a fortnight since Pizza Hut, much to the bemusement
of the Twitterverse, became the first international restaurant chain to add biryani to its menu. Birizza, which is
what the biryani is called because it
comes in a pan pizza dough purdah, has
come to India a year after its launch in Sri Lanka. Now, Pizza Hut hopes to
leverage the product, as the chain's country head, Sanjiv Razdan, explained to
me, to go beyond the 100 million "relatively rich Indians" and reach
out to the 300 million "urban Indians".
The Birizza launch announcement was greeted by social media
denizens with more shock than awe, but I found it to be a welcome innovation. I
loved cutting open the pizza dough top and eating it after dipping it into the
accompanying makhni gravy "with
a twist", and the biryani inside tasted good. Arjyo Banerjee, product
innovation head of Yum Restaurants (Pizza Hut's parent company), said it had
been inspired by the tawa biryani he
used to eat in his student days at a restaurant that's no longer there at
Dadar, Mumbai. From Kabul to Kerala, from Karachi to Kolkata, our part of the
world is studded with biryanis, each
significantly different from the other. The Birizza is a welcome addition to
this sub-continental bouquet.
This comment has been removed by the author.
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