Young French Chef from Bouvet Ladubay Family Shows It's Easy to Make Cabbages Kings

By Sourish Bhattacharyya

IT'S NOT hard to recognise a creative chef. She turns the simplest of dishes into a gastronomic experience. Choux farcis is peasant food -- it's an unpretentious cabbage roll, as old as civilisation. But not in the hands of Marie Monmousseau, younger daughter of Patrice Monmousseau, the charismatic CEO of Bouvet Ladubay, the Loire Valley cremant (sparkling wine) brand that Vijay Mallya's United Spirits Limited had acquired from Starwood Capital in 2006 after the French government scuttled his bid for Champagne Taittinger.

Marie Monmousseau (left), formerly with Zuma, Le
Petite Maison and Locanda Locatelli in London, with
her sister Juliette at the  Bouvet Ladubay dinner
at ITC Gardenia in Bangalore earlier in the week

She has worked in London as a chef for ten years, working up the kitchen hierarchy at Zuma, Le Petite Maison and Locanda Locatelli, whose Dubai restaurant she opened and ran for a couple of years, but Marie Monmousseau believes a good chef must have the talent to turn around an everyday dish into a gourmet sensation. She left her six-month-old son back home for her week-long cooking tour of Mumbai and Bangalore, where she cooked up little storms with her gourmet re-interpretations of home food.

Accompanied by her multi-talented sister Juliette (a film distributor and graphics designer who's now helping her father with the wine business), Marie reinvented choux farcis by replacing the traditional filling of pork with duck mince and adding foie gras, which is strategically positioned at the centre, dried ceps (or porcini), black truffles from picturesque Perigord, in the region of Aquitaine between the Loire Valley and the Pyrenees, and onions. It was to be the main course at a Bouvet Ladubay dinner that was being hosted later in the evening at the ITC Grand Central in Lower Parel, Mumbai. Marie treated me to a sneak preview -- and it was enough to convince me that she had the talent to turn the everyday into the exceptional.

I was sharing the table at Shanghai Club, where the young chef from Chengdu served us a hearty 'working lunch', with Abhay Kewadkar, the force behind the UB Group's foray into wine with the Four Seasons brand, and Kuldeep Bhartee, the hotel's general manager and a world traveller who has been even to Hungary and Turkey in search of new wines. It was a conversation that skimmed many topics -- from the horror of the 26/11 attacks on the Taj Mahal Palace and Tower, Mumbai, to the silken beauty of the Four Seasons Barrique Reserve Shiraz 2009, which followed the sparkler from Loire Valley, to my observation that Shanghai Club has got to emerge out of the shadow of its hugely famous big brother, Kebabs & Kurries. Shanghai Club has opened at the WelcomHotel Dwarka in New Delhi and you'll soon be reading about it, but I can guarantee, without having gone there yet, that it wouldn't disappoint you.

The lunch started with canapes with two different toppings -- black olives and capers, and duck liver -- that were so perfectly executed that I wondered why even our finest establishments haven't nourished the culture of serving canapes that stir up the appetite and not just quell hunger pangs. The canapes were just right for the bubbles of Bouvet, which incidentally is the pouring sparkling wine at Cannes, and is exported to more than 40 countries. Sufficiently lubricated with alcohol, our lunch ended with what is known in the Monmousseau family as Le Gateau du Marie and Creme Anglaise (the understated custard was the perfect accompaniment to the cake, which disappeared without a trace!). Le Gateau du Marie is a chocolate fudge cake, but what makes it strikingly different is that it is dusted with sesame seeds along its outer perimeter. That gives the slightly gooey cake a crunchy finish. It's an inspired juxtaposition of textures, which only a six-year-old (which is how old Marie was when she first made this cake) could have done without caring for the consequences!

Marie is all set to launch her own restaurant, Le Route du Sel, at the Bouvet Ladubay estate in February on the banks of the Loire. Le Route du Sel, Marie explained, allude to the old trade route used by salt merchants to transport the commodity across the river. The name couldn't have been more appropriate -- salt, after all, is at the base of most food (and is now even being used increasingly in desserts). From the pictures Marie showed, Le Route du Sel is a cosy 40-seater (the seating will be raised to 120 in the summer so that diner can soak up the mellow sun) with warm Mediterranean colours. Just what you'd expect out of a restaurant showcasing Marie's brand of home-style gastronomy.

Juliette has been talking to Indian travel agents who organise bespoke tours to put the Bouvet Ladubay estate in Saumur on their map. It already attracts more than 40,000 tourists every year. They go to see 'The Sunken Cathedral' in the wine cellars in the depths of the quarried-out tunnels and caves from where monks in the 11th century took out white stones to build the powerful La Belle d'Anjou Abbey. The Sunken Cathedral is a contemporary sculptor's tribute to the architecture of the abbey enhanced with music and light,  turning the walk down the wine cellars into a spiritual experience.

The Bouvet Ladubay tourist experience also includes a visit to the Full Metal, the 14,000-sq-m, state-of-the-art winery run in parts by robots, which was inaugurated in 2008 by the then Indian ambassador to France (and later the country's foreign secretary) Ranjan Mathai and Vijay Mallya. Kewadkar said you can see the whole of the winery only if you bicycle around it! After quenching their thirst for wine knowledge, tourists move on to the Contemporary Art Centre, which houses the work of some of the foremost European artists, and the private theatre, which is also popular today for business meetings. Juliette said Marie's restaurant will complete this experience, giving tourists yet another reason to visit Bouvet Ladubay. Wine, food and art -- could one ask for more?

DINING OUT: Aerocity's First Hotel Woos Delhi with a Winner Buffet Spread

This review first appeared in Mail Today on November 22, 2013. To view the original, go to http://epaper.mailtoday.in/epaperhome.aspx?issue=22112013 and open Page 23. Copyright: Mail Today Newspapers

DINING OUT

K3 @ JW MARRIOTT

WHERE: Asset Area 4, Hospitality District, Delhi Aerocity (on your way to IGIA's T3)

WHEN: Lunch and Dinner

DIAL: +91 11 4521 2121

MEAL PER PERSON (MINUS ALCOHOL): Rs 1,200+++ (lunch); Rs 1,750+++ (dinner)

RATING: ****

By Sourish Bhattacharyya

DELHI is in the throes of a spate of restaurant openings -- Yuautcha at Ambience Mall, Vasant Kunj; Dhaba by Claridges at DLF Place, Saket; Soda Bottle Openerwala at Cyber Hub, Gurgaon; Paranda at Vivanta by Taj, Faridabad; Shanghai Club at WelcomHotel Dwarka -- but I chose to start my journey of new discoveries with K3, the all-day restaurant at the New Delhi Aerocity's JW Marriott, the first hotel to be off the block at what has been a ghost of a destination for the past one year.

K3's Daniele Trivero, one of the three anchor

chefs stationed at the sprawling open kitchens,

 rolls out pizzas that will give La Piazza a good 

run for its wads of money

What drew me to K3 was the chatter it had caused on Facebook for serving the city's lowest-priced buffet (Rs 1,250+++ per person for lunch; Rs 1,750+++ for dinner). People know it's an introductory offer -- how else does a newbie get us to talk about it in a competitive market? -- but what has blown them away is the sheer quality and range of the food dished up by the sprawling restaurant's three show kitchens.

Each kitchen is led by a chef who brings bundles of talent and newness to the food he serves. The Chinese kitchen is headed by the reassuring Thomas Wee, a Malaysian of Chinese origin from Malacca, whom many of us know from his days at the Empress of China, in the hotel that was once known as the Parkroyal. Daniele Trivero brings the best culinary gifts of his mixed parentage (his father is Piemontese; his mother is from Puglia) to the Italian kitchen. And Pavan Chennam, who in his last job at the ITC Grand Maratha spent five years documenting the recipes of the legendary Imtiaz Qureishi, brings his energy, repertoire and a young team to the Indian kitchen. You can only expect the best from this formidable trio.

I knew I was on to a good deal when I dug into the dim sum (the one with crab meat impressed me with its freshness and flavours). I followed it up with a platter of roast duck, pork with crispy skin and honey-glazed pork -- a meatvaganza that should warm any carnivore's heart with the subtle sensations it leaves behind on the palate. It's a pleasure to have meats served to you with just a hint of cooking and brushstrokes of accompanying sauces that don't smother the main ingredient. An example of this minimalist yet flavour-intense cooking style was the lightly steamed sea bass that came to life with the accompanying garlic-ginger-chilli sauce, which was splayed on the middle of the fillet like a victory belt.

I first had the tomato focaccia bread from the Italian kitchen and I kid you not, I could have had just that for dinner. But you can't have a complete K3 experience without Daniele's unbeatable pizzas. I had one with just a pelati tomato base (without oregano to dress it up, the umami of the tomatoes made me go chomp-chomp-chomp). The toppings were speck, radicchio and scamorza, the famous cheese from Puglia, the home province of the chef's mother. I have not had many pizzas that taste better. I had another slice from the pizza with the mildly hot Neapolitan salami as topping. It's just what our chilli-foraging palate would want more of.

It's a pity that the Indian kitchen doesn't serve kebabs (the hotel could have put the five years that Chennam spent under Imtiaz Qureishi's wings to better use), but its tadkewali bhindi (cooked in cold-pressed kasundi sourced from Kolkata), Purani Dilli ki Murghi, Mutton Nehari and dum biryani made with sella (parboiled) rice, which I thought was a nifty diversion from the standard basmati.

The restaurant actually has four kitchens, because its dessert counter has a distinctive presence, and the masala chai ice-cream convinced me that you can't let a sated tummy make you miss the offerings lined up to tempt you. You'll not regret spending this Sunday with your family at K3.

Ex-Wasabi Chef to Roll Out Sushi-Sashimi at ITC WelcomHotel Dwarka’s Shanghai Club

By Sourish Bhattacharyya

Shanghai Club has opened at the ITC WelcomHotel, Dwarka

AFTER the successful opening of the notches-above-the-rest kebabs and curries restaurant, K&K, at the ITC WelcomHotel Dwarka, it’s the turn of Shanghai Club — and it will be different from the original at the ITC Grand Central at Lower Parel, Mumbai, in one important respect. It will also serve sushi and sashimi prepared by a gifted young chef who, the Indian Restaurant Spy has learnt, has migrated from Wasabi by Morimoto at The Taj Mahal Hotel, Mansingh Road, New Delhi.

That’s the second big ‘transfer’, to use Premiership League football lingo, from Wasabi — the first being the extremely talented Vikramjit Roy, who has catapulted the Pan Asian at the ITC Grand Chola, Chennai, to TripAdvisor’s No. 1 (out of 675 restaurants in Chennai). It has an overall rating of 4.5/5. Now, that’s a headline-making coup for a newbie in a city dominated by established heavy hitters, from the ITC’s very own Dakshin and Raintree to Annalakshmi and Hip Asia.

Coming back to Shanghai Club, I am told that the restaurant will serve good, old-fashioned Chinese food. Are we, then, going to see the return of the glory days of Bali Hi, which under Master Chef Liang used to rock the rooftop of the ITC Maurya? Your hard-working spy will have the inside story soon.

The big anticipated opening at the Dwarka hotel, though, is Ghungroo, which is set to return with a music menu being put together by the man synonymous with the nightclub — Sunny Sarid. With the Dwarka Vivanta by Taj, which has been placed under the charge of Anil Malhotra, who was till recently the general manager of Taj Chandigarh, on the road to completion in the next eight months, the ITC WelcomHotel is seriously turning on the heat. But before you bring out your dancing shoes, check out the Shanghai Club.