By Sourish Bhattacharyya
The Grill Room at The Lalit's 28th floor is all set to re-open with a tempting new menu |
THE LALIT'S
rooftop, perched on the 28th floor, is one of Delhi's prized pieces of real
estate offering a panoramic view of the sights that define the Capital, from
the Ba'hai Lotus Temple to India Gate, Red Fort and Jama Masjid, and Akshardham
Temple. It has seen two Thai restaurants, first the Silk Orchid and then the
international franchise, Blue Elephant,
come and go on one side, and a grill-based restaurant on the other, which has
seen many avatars, and is all set now to re-open on the Independence Day
weekend as The Grill Room presided
over by the talented Ishika Konar, an
IHM-Kolkata alumna whom I'd first met at the Pullman Gurgaon Central Park.
Pullman's loss clearly has been The
Lalit's gain. And she's fortunate to have as her guide the brilliant chef, Nimish Bhatia, a fount of knowledge and
experience who assiduously stays away from the limelight. Bhatia is the
Corporate Chef of The Lalit group, so he has collected more frequent flyer
miles than most people I know, because he has 11 hotels under his charge, and
he has been slowly but surely making a difference to their restaurant offerings.
I got a foretaste of the combination
of Bhatia's vision and Konar's skills -- she's a dab hand at the grill -- at a
preview dinner where I had been invited by my Delhi Gourmet Club partner in crime,
Rocky Mohan, who's too well-known to
be re-introduced. Ravinder Kumar,
The Lalit's Corporate General Manager (F&B), and the chain's most reliable
pillar of strength, gave us company and was his quietly witty self.
As our conversation moved from a
discussion on micro-greens to foreign imports imperilled by the new food safety
and standards law, to Rocky's experience at The French Laundry, we had a remarkable
meal (each one of us ordered different items) of goat's cheese and onion jam
tart, cheese empanadas, grilled prawns with a soul-nourishing beurre blanc, baked
and blow-torched provolone, grilled Cornish hen's breast (as succulent as they
come!) and a wagyu-style steak that didn't require a knife to be cut, such was
the extent of the marbling. As you'd expect from a good chef, Bhatia did not make
us believe that the steak had just been flown in from Japan, which is not
possible under that country's law; it had come from America, he clarified.
The Grill Room is all about honest food, down to the flavoured salts served with the breads, the piri piri sauce and the morel mash. A welcome addition to Delhi's gastronomic repertoire.
The Grill Room is all about honest food, down to the flavoured salts served with the breads, the piri piri sauce and the morel mash. A welcome addition to Delhi's gastronomic repertoire.
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