By Sourish Bhattacharyya
QUICK BITES
WHAT: Summer Menu at Le Cirque
WHERE: The Leela Palace New Delhi, Diplomatic
Enclave, Chanakyapuri
WHEN: Dinner only
DIAL: (011) 39331390
AVG MEAL FOR TWO MINUS
TAXES & ALCOHOL: Rs
7,000
(The restaurant doesn't levy service charge)
WHEN Le Cirque first opened on the rooftop of The Leela
Palace New Delhi at Chanakyapuri, I went against prevailing wisdom and trashed
its tired Franco-Italian menu, which, I discovered, was more or less the
treatment being meted out to it by critics at the restaurant's birthplace, New
York City. It was at this time that someone alerted me to the till-then
undiscovered talent of Abhay Singh 'Mickey' Bhoite, the restaurant's
Gujarati-born Italian executive chef. He could do much more than just replicate
the mother restaurant's menu.
Mickey Bhoite, Le Cirque's Chef de Cuisine, has proved to be a fine orchestrator of the unusual -- jasmine-smoked scallops and pan-seared foie gras with jamun confit, anyone? |
Mickey grew up in Tuscany and worked at some of the world's best-known
Italian restaurants before being handpicked by Le Cirque's Grand Old Man, Sirio
Maccioni, to come over to Delhi. On arrival, Mickey at once attracted notice
with his spiky hairstyle and sunny disposition. And stories started circulating
about his lifelong love for venomous snakes (his collection of 60-plus of these
slithering creatures back home in Italy is now in the custody of his mother), his
passion for motorbikes and football (AC Juventus has his unwavering loyalty), and, as you'd expect
from a chef of his standing, his mastery over contemporary gastronomic
techniques such as sous vide, or slow cooking in a water bath to ensure
uniform cooking and protect the sanctity of the essential juices of meats. But
we got to see very little of Mickey's repertoire.
Not any longer. Le Cirque's recently unveiled summer menu retains
the popular classics such as the Porcini Consomme, Caesar Salad (with sunny
side-up egg toast), Sirio's Pasta Primavera, Bistecca alla Fioentina (prepared
with a chunky Angus T-bone steak), and Lobster Risotto, but it allows Mickey
and his deputy, Federico Pucci, the freedom to give their creative instincts a
free run. The formula seems to be working, for the restaurant, despite its steep
prices, is forever full. The last time I was there, the celebrity diners
included Captain Amarinder Singh, Congress deputy leader in the Lok Sabha, his
party colleague, Louise Khurshid, who was celebrating her promotion as senior
citizen, the Iraqi ambassador, who had come with friends, and Kapil and Romi
Dev, who were with an eclectic group at yet another private dining room.
Mickey loves to marry tastes and textures into seamless
gastronomic experiences with the confidence that comes only when a chef
understands his ingredients well. I asked him, for instance, about why he feels
the need to import aubergines from France, and his reply made sense to me,
despite his lengthy carbon footprint. Indian vegetables can be very temperamental
-- sometimes, they taste like the best in the world; at other times, they are
just not right. This can be extremely frustrating for a chef whose reputation
is built upon consistency.
What I admire about Mickey is his memorable little creative
touches, like presenting Asparagus Soup with buttermilk foam and salmon roe, or
Wild Forest Mushrooms with parsnip puree, fava beans and hazelnuts, or Double
Cooked Mozzarella with figs, arugula, aged
balsamic vinegar and strawberry
gazpacho (how cool!). His killer app, though, is the Pan Seared Foie Gras with perigordine
sauce (a must for a Beef Wellington), caramelised peach, summery jamun confit (this is a touch of
genius!) and toasted brioche. And Mickey's scallops come delicately
jasmine-smoked, an idea that carries stamp (as does his Masala Tea Tiramisu).
Mickey brings an element of surprise to each dish, but the
standouts are Ricotta and Spinach Gnocchi (with spicy carrot reduction,
caramelised onion and spinach cracker), Lamb CĂ´telette in Grissini Crunch (with
cocoa butter, which is another inspired choice, like using grissini for crumbs,
potato and roasted garlic mash, plus a mint and onion sauce in the style of the
Argentinean 'chimichurri'), and Olive Oil Poached Black Cod (drizzled with fresh
tomato and parsley guazzetto, or slow-cooked, sauce and burnt eggplant 'pestato').
A world of influences congregate on the plate and Mickey orchestrates this
gastronomic symphony with the elan of a Zubin Mehta.
This restaurant review first appeared in Mail Today on Friday, June 26, 2014.
Copyright: Mail Today Newspapers
This restaurant review first appeared in Mail Today on Friday, June 26, 2014.
Copyright: Mail Today Newspapers
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